Watch Papers Are More Than Protection

Watch papers have long been neglected by collectors, but now they’re becoming popular. Originally used as a packing between the inner and outer case of a watch to protect its works, they became keepsakes in the mid-18th century.
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Jade, ivory, horn, and marble should be lightly dusted with a soft brush or dry, soft cloth. Keep these objects out of direct sunlight, since they may dry out and become brittle. Always handle these objects with care when moving them.
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If you’re like many collectors today, you’ve already discovered the Internet, specifically eBay, for buying and perhaps selling antiques and collectibles–for good or bad.                             
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Cologne, Germany - We live in an age of technology, so it’s fitting that pieces of early technology should be high on collector’s lists of most wanted items. On June 18, Auction Team Köln, the premier specialty auction of technical items since 1987, headed by Auction Team Breker, held it’s quarterly Science & Technology, Office Antiques, and Toys and Tin Toys auctions in Cologne, Germany.
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Updated
October 2, 2007

Preserving the Patina--and Value--of Antique Furniture
by Bob Brooke


I

True patina is nonexistent on furniture only a few years old. Although fine mahogany, cherry, or maple, recently milled, may look handsome, they lack the glow that comes with a century or more of use. The tone or color of course varies with the wood, but the bloom grows with age and handling. Restoring and refinishing always must be done carefully to avoid damaging the patina.

The natural aging of wood contributes greatly to its patina. Backboards and drawers made of soft woods also color as they age. When they are taken out, the upper drawers may still be light-colored because they were protected. But the backboards and the bottom of the lowest drawer, which have been exposed, will have darkened and mellowed to a soft shade of brown. Again, this darkening cannot be reproduced or faked by applying stain.

There’s some controversy when it comes to refinishing a piece of antique furniture. Purists, especially those collecting 18th and early 19th-Century pieces will argue that to touch a piece is nothing less than criminal. Others will argue that some pieces need cleaning and maybe some repair. Collectors of higher-valued furniture want their pieces to be in pristine–that is, absolutely original--condition. To them, even cleaning a piece takes away from its value.

Cleaning a valuable antique can be done, but it should be done by a professional. Off-the-shelf cleaners and polishes like Pledge do more harm than good, as they build up a layer of wax and hydrocarbons. For less valuable pieces, a simple washing mixture can be prepared using a capful of Murphy’s Oil Soap to about two quarts of warm water. This should be applied onto a small area at a time using an old washcloth, followed immediately by a thorough drying with an old terrycloth towel. The piece should be allowed to dry for about 24 hours before applying a coating of Minwax. By working on a small area at a time and working quickly, warping will be prevented.

The only kind of wax that should ever be used on antique furniture is Minwax paste wax, applied with a soft cloth such as an old sock or a cloth diaper. An annual waxing using Minwax preserves and moisturizes the wood.

To read more articles by Bob Brooke, please visit his Web site